The flourish of a feminine signature complete with a frilly butterfly forming the “W” belies the tough, weather-proofed steel construction of the sign that welcomes visitors to Dollywood. Much like the Hollywood sign located half-way across the country, this sign serves as a fitting icon for the place and for the person who inspired it. Dollywood exemplifies the imaginative, down-home fun-loving spirit of Dolly Parton as well as her savvy business acumen and sense of social purpose.
Walking around the well-manicured grounds of Dollywood on a hot August day, I felt a festive spirit permeating the air. Music lilted above the noises of the crowd. Other visitors exchanged friendly nods with me and wore smiles visible even through the required COVID-19 masks. Even the occasional rain shower during the day failed to dampen spirits, especially of children in this family-friendly venue.
The Theme Park
The 150-acre theme park, nestled in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains near Dolly Parton’s family home in Tennessee, opened in 1986. Dolly bought a small theme park, then known as Silver Dollar City, that was on the brink of financial failure. In the last three decades, she has built it into one of the most successful businesses in Eastern Tennessee, employing about 4500 people. Each year, Dollywood welcomes three million visitors.
In a recent interview, Dolly Parton said “I think you should be able to be proud of where you’re from. I didn’t leave here to get away from my people. I wanted to do other things, I wanted to go see the world, but I was always proud to be a country girl. I knew this would be a wonderful business venture, but I also knew it would really bring a lot of joy and happiness and a lot of jobs, too. That was important to me. Growing up poor, I know how important it is to make a living. And take pride in it.”*
Despite the crowds on the day I visited, the park looked immaculate. The invisible hands of countless workers maintained the park and kept it cleaner than other large attractions I’ve visited, such as Disney World or Kennedy Space Center. The architecture of the buildings suggested a 19th century setting, though much of it did not particularly reflect historic Tennessee or the Smoky Mountains. Lush landscaping filled the park with an abundance of flowers, greenery, ponds, and fountains.
The Water Flume, a man-made elevated river, wound through the park. Near the entrance, the flume resembled a Rube Goldberg-type structure, with water falling from bucket to trough to barrel to stream. Gravity powers the Water Flume, which feeds the streams and ponds flowing through the park. The flowing stream, in turn, powers a working gristmill that grinds corn into grits and cornmeal.
For those who enjoy theme-park rides, Dollywood offers more than forty — from high-energy roller coasters and daredevil waterfalls to tyke-friendly riding bees and bears. While most visitors flocked to the rides, I admired them from a distance. Dolly, herself, has admitted to never riding them. “I have a tendency to get motion sickness. Also, I’m a little bit chicken. With all my hair I got so much to lose, like my wig or my shoes. I don’t like to get messed up.” Like Dolly, I did not want to get messed up; specifically, I did not want a wet butt from the downpours.
All Aboard
The one ride I did take was aboard the Dollywood Express. A coal-burning engine, affectionately known as Cinderella, powers the train around the grounds. The old engine chugged up and down the hills and through the wooded perimeter of the park. Whenever we passed one of the rides or attractions, the engineer tooted the horn and rang the bell and all of us aboard waved to the people we passed.
A guide told us a bit about Cindy’s history (though the engine noise drowned out a lot of her words). Cindy and a second engine, Klondike Katie, were built by the Baldwin Locomotive Works in Philadelphia in 1938 and 1940 respectively. Both served in the U.S. Army during World War II, transporting troops and lumber in Alaska. When the Army retired the ladies, the original theme park bought them. Between them, the engines haul over five thousand visitors each day.
Craftsman’s Valley
For years I’d looked forward to visiting Craftsman’s Valley in Dollywood. At least a decade ago, I saw a news segment where an interviewer and Dolly walked through the living history section of Dollywood. As she led the interviewer to each craft area and introduced the artisans, she radiated pride in the traditional crafts and music of the Great Smoky Mountains.
Unfortunately, during my visit many of the artisans had limited their activities because of Coronavirus restrictions. In healthier times, the artisans demonstrate their crafts and many lead workshops in which visitors can try their hands it.
While I missed taking part in a workshop, I did see a few demonstrations set behind glass partitions. The blacksmith plied his trade at the foundry. The leather smith tooled designs on belts and wallets. The potter cleaned her kiln in preparation for firing the next batch of bowls and pitchers. Demonstrations had been suspended at the glassworks and the wood carving shop, but I did enjoy browsing through the stores selling the artisans’ wares.
Through It All, Music
Dollywood would not be Dollywood without live music filling the air and enlivening the spirit. Though staff had closed the interior theaters, pockets of live music happened all over the park in outdoor settings. Whether a string band strumming old-time mountain music or young performers enthusiastically belting out the latest in pop and country, the level of talent amazed me. Crowds clapped and danced to the beat and often sang along. To enjoy a taste, click here to watch a spirited group of young, talented performers delivering classic country and rock.
Hurray for Dolly
Thanks to Dolly Parton, Dollywood does indeed “bring a lot of joy and happiness and a lot of jobs, too.” Dollywood and the surrounding towns have become thriving tourist destinations. The park’s fun, family-focused atmosphere brings happiness to millions of visitors each year. Through Dolly’s dedication to traditional music and crafts, generations to come will learn about and appreciate these great American arts. Hooray for Dolly and hooray for Dollywood.
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*Tariro Mzezewa, New York Times June 5, 2019 https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/05/travel/dolly-parton-dollywood-wildwood.html
For more information about Dollywood: https://www.dollywood.com/